If your hair is dry regardless of how much you baby those locks with conditioner and oil, youmight have low porosity hair. Hair porosity affects how well your hair can absorb and retain moisture, explains Danielle Keasling, celebrity hairstylist,Biolage Creative Director, and Ulta Beauty Pro Team member. "Knowing where your hair falls on the porosity spectrum can dramatically change your hair care routine," she explains.
Low porosity hair has a tight cuticle on its surface, making it harder for water or hair care products to penetrate through the outer surface, explains Joshua Zeichner, M.D.,an associate professor of dermatology and the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City. “Because the cuticle is so tight, it can be difficult to hydrate and treat low porosity hair,” Dr. Zeichner says.
However, you can have softer, hydrated strands if you know how to take care of low porosity hair.
- David Harvey, M.D., FAAD, FACMS, at Anne Arundel Dermatology in Georgia
- Joshua Zeichner, M.D.,an associate professor of dermatology and the director of cosmetic & clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City
- Candace Spann, M.D., a board certified dermatologist in Las Vegas
- Danielle Keasling, celebrity hairstylist,Biolage Creative Director, and Ulta Beauty Pro Team member
What Are Characteristics of Low Porosity Hair?
People with low porosity hair may notice that it takes a while for their hair to get wet in the shower and a long time to dry, says David Harvey, M.D., FAAD, FACMS, at Anne Arundel Dermatology in Georgia. “It also becomes stiff in response to protein treatments,” he says. Typically, low porosity hair is less brittle than high porosity hair, which easily absorbs moisture.
According to Keasling, low porosity hair tends to feels smooth because the cuticle layers are tightly sealed. "It’s less likely to frizz compared to high porosity hair, but when it does frizz, it’s usually because moisture isn’t being absorbed properly," Keasling says. Low porosity hair is prone to product buildup since the products tend to sit on top rather than penetrate the hair shaft, she explains. And you may notice some dry ends, she adds.
How to Test Your Hair
You can check for hair porosity with a simple test, says Dr. Harvey. Using a glass of water, place a few hair strands on top of the water. Then, watch to see if your hair sinks to the bottom of the glass or if it floats, he explains. “If the strands float at the top for a bit before sinking, then that’s a sign for low porosity hair,” Dr. Harvey says. “If the hair strands sink to the bottom quickly, then that’s a sign for high porosity hair.”
How to Care for Low Porosity Hair
Avoid Over Brushing Your Hair
Repeated brushing, along with constantly wetting and drying your hair, can make hair feel dryer, according to Dr. Harvey.
Steer Clear of Certain Ingredients
Check the label on your hair care products to make sure they don’t contain proteins or keratin, which sit on the surface of low-porosity hair, resulting in a dull or limp appearance, Dr. Harvey says. Proteins can also lead to product build-up, says Candace Spann, M.D., a board certified dermatologist in Las Vegas.
...And Look for the Right Ingredients
"The trick isn’t necessarily giving low porosity hair more moisture, but rather using products that help moisture penetrate more effectively," Keasling says. She recommends glycerin, honey, and aloe vera, which help attract moisture without weighing down hair.
Hairstyling products that contain humectant ingredients like hyaluronic acid are also great, because they act like a sponge to pull in hydration to your hair, explains Dr. Zeichner. A lightweight oil, like coconut oil, can also help hydrate and soften low porosity hair, he says.
Use Heat
"If you have low porosity hair, apply shampoos and conditioners in hot water in the shower, which can help open up the hair cuticles," advises Dr. Zeichner. Alternatively, you could get a deep conditioning treatment while sitting under a hooded dryer at a salon or use a hot steam towel, Keasling says.
Learn to Layer the Right Way
To help hydrate your hair, apply products when your locks are still damp, Keasling says. Start with lightweight, water-based products before finishing your style with oils or creams to seal in the moisture, she says.
